Monday, February 24, 2014

Among the Belivers in South India



My three and half year stay in the South changed the perspective of the thought in the North India that south is just an appendix, an incidental extension of, of the North Indian Muslin society. The achievements of the Muslims of South India stand favorable comparison not only with those in the north but anywhere in the Muslim world.

It is almost a thousand miles from Delhi to Hyderabad. Here the ruling Muslims had to make serious efforts to live with the majority Hindus or face extinction.  There was no going back.  Their boats were burned when they crossed into the south.

And the south is a different world.  We are no longer in the shadow of mighty mountain rangers and by powerful rivers-the home of divine spirits but on anonymous plains and plateaus.  The weather is mild, the landscape gentle.  No longer Aryan, we are in Dravidian land.  Telugu, the Italian of the East, and Tamil not Hindi, are spoken here.  The issues in Hindu society are different.  Muslims do not form a central obsession.  The Brahmans do, against whom there are strong feelings and moments inconceivable in the north.  The threat in the south was not seen in communal, Hindu –Muslim, terms but in that of militant northern empires wishing to extend their borders.

There is a gentleness, a softness, of speech and bearing in the south which contrasts with the aggressive manners of north Indian groups.  The growth of the recent communal violence in the south is widely explained as one of the unsavory imports, an aspect of north Indian society and politics.  Historical or social precedence does not exist for it in the south.  However, Muslim society is diverse and complex, evoking different responses in different places.  The one emotion that is around in all Muslims is nostalgia for the past.  Muslims confronting the glories of their history feel a sense of loss.  The nostalgia for past greatness is rooted in the Arab view of history. It is a legitimate perception.  After the destruction of Baghdad by the Mongols, Arab history would never be the same again.  The past, therefore, became a crutch an anodyne. And for Muslims in South Asia never more so as than in what was once the Muslim Deccan, the kingdom of Golkonda, and its successor, the state of Hyderabad. 

Here Muslims suffer from what I am calling the “Andalus syndrome”.  Andalusia, as we know, once formed the great Muslim civilization in the Iberian Peninsula and what is now Spain.  Interesting conceptual similarities are discernible between the Andalusian’s and Hyderabad civilization, although there is a gap of 500 years between the times they came to an end, and three continents separate them. 

 An Umayyad started the dynasty in Andalusia when the Umayyad dynasty and empire had collapsed in Damascus, the capital; in Hyderabad, a Mughal governor sent from Delhi, the capital of the Mughal Empire, established the dynasty which was to shine long after the Mughal Empire was dead.  A synthesis of religions cultures is recorded in Hyderabad between Hindus and Muslims and in Andalusia between Christians, Jews and Muslims.  The synthesis stimulated a flourishing of art, architecture and literature.  Muslims were never quite masters of the Iberian nor the Indian peninsula.  The civilization of Hyderabad and Andalusia ended abruptly, in mid-air, leaving a permanent trauma, a sense of bewilderment, in their societies. 

A forlorn nostalgia, a pain, an emotion sometimes too deep for words, haunts these societies.  Andalusians in Morocco prominently displayed the keys of their former homes as symbols of the lost land.  Hyderabadis in Karachi continue to eat Hyderabadi food and wear Hyderabadi clothes on special occasions, preserved as a part of their lost, cherished civilization.  The Andalus syndrome creates a neurosis, a perplexity, in society.  It is yearning for a past that is dead but will not be buried, a fear of an unreliable future which is still to be born. 

The Bahmani sultans overcoming Hindu kings ruled for two centuries.  Their territory was then split into five Muslim sultanates.  One of these was the Qutub Shahi kingdom of Golkonda. Seven Qutub Shahi king ruled for just under two centuries.  They were enthusiastic builders and tolerant rulers.  The city of Hyderabad, the Char Minar tower-a symbol of the city-the Makkah Masjid, royal tombs and the Golkonda fort are their monuments.  Their Shaiism was pronounced –Hyderabad derives from Hyder, a name of Ali, and the Char Minar is in the shape of tazya, symbolic of Karbala.  Historians suggest their Shila fervor roused the orthodox fury of the Mughal of Emperor Aurangzeb.  The emperor destroyed the last Qutub Shahi king, moving south from Delhi for the purpose.  From the line of his governor, Mir Qamarud-din, came the Nizams, who ruled from the north, from Delhi again, when his state was occupied and merged with the Indian Republic in 1948.

Clive, Sivaji, Wellesley, Hastings, Haider Ali, Tipu, the Nizams, were the central actors in the Indian drama; and they all played their part in the south.  Only in the nineteenth century would the centre of gravity shift to the north of India.

From the middle of the nineteenth century, when the British saw Muslims as the main culprits for the uprisings of 1857 and discriminated against them, to the middle of the twentieth century was a period of despair for Muslims in South Asia.  At a time when Muslim fortunes were at a low ebb, Muslim civilization in Hyderabad shone brightly.  It is thus doubly significant.

Little did Mir Qamarud-din, the Mughal Viceroy in the Deccan, realize that his dynasty would one day hold the torch for Muslim civilization in South Asia when he assumed the title of Asif Jah in 1724 and declared virtual independence from Delhi.  His state, Hyderabad, was assuming the mantle of succession to the Bahmanis, Vijayanagar and the Muslim sultanates. Seven Nizams-Asif Jah I to VII-ruled Hyderabad.  All except the last are buried in Makkah Masjid.  In the late eighteenth century the Nizam remained loyal to the British against his fellow Muslim, Tipu Sultan, and also in the next century, during the uprisings in 1857.  In 1918 the British conferred on Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan the highest title in India, “His exalted Highness”.

The area of Hyderabad, although fluctuating with the expansion and designs of British power, was just over 82,000 square miles when the state was finally absorbed into India in 1948.  The state had its own railways, army post and currency.  The administration was headed by a Prime Minister, notably those furnished by the Salar Jangs. Osmania’s library was one of the best stocked in India and today has about half a million books.

In nineteenth century India Sir Sayyed Ahmad and Sir Salar jang I, Prime Minister of Hyderabad, were famed for their efforts in education for, and their vision of, Muslim society.  During 1857 both demonstrated their loyalty to the British.  In 1888 was founded the Dairatul-Maarif-it-Osmania, an institution which promoted the collection of rare and original Arabic manuscripts and their translation into Urdu.  Famous works of literature were translated into Urdu by a vigorous department, the Darul Tarjumah. 

One of the lasting contributions of the Nizam is his patronage of the translation of the holy Quran made by Marmaduke Pickthall, an English Muslim, into English.  Imad-ul-Mulk was considered one of the best English writers of his time.  He wrote the petition submitted by the delegation whose leader was the Aga Khan to Lord Minto, Viceroy of India, in 1906.  The petition sowed the seeds for the Muslim league and the idea of Pakistan. Sir Ross Masood, the grandson of Sir Sayyed Ahmad, was his Director of Education-he later became Vice-Chancellor of Aligarh University, Professor von Furer Haimendorf was advisor on tribal affairs, and later became professor of Anthropology in London University.

A market in Hyderabad, still known as Madinah market, donated its earnings to the people of Madinah in a gesture of Islamic brotherhood.  A generation later the discovery of oil in Saudi Arabia and the loss of Hyderabad state would reverse the economic situation of the two societies in a poignant twist of history.

The Hyderabad civilization was rapidly reaching its climax, in a burst of fresh creativity, when it was terminated at that point. In the early twentieth century when India was beginning to demand first greater participation in government, and later independence from the British, Hyderabad, maintaining its island mentality, remained isolated from the mainstream of politics.  This artificial isolation created a hot-house atmosphere in the state, explaining its brilliant growth-reaching a peak at the time India achieved independence in 1947- and also its abrupt downfall.

Makkah Masjid, Madinah market, Saracenic arches, the Arabic language-here was an attempt made by its rulers to create a society which drew inspiration from outside, non local, source.  The foundations of society were thus weak.  Grand titles, elegant clothes, sophisticated cuisine, patronage of arts-Hyderabad civilization reflected leisure, wealth and security.  But beneath the brilliance was the reality of a highly feudal order, an exclusive language, an imported religion surrounded by a vast non Muslim majority.  A small but active communist movement merged with that of the congress to demand change and assisted in the demise of the Nizam state. Hyderabad was a house built on sand.  An artificial creation, it collapsed easily.The unreal politics of the Majlis-i-Ittehad-i-Muslimeen, the local Muslim party, in attempting to turn the clock back, further isolated Hyderabad.  These factors would cost the Muslims dearly.

Matters were worsened by the Nizam’s feeble and ambiguous attempts to establish an independent state, and vaguer sentiments about joining Pakistan, with which he has no borders.  The conquest of Hyderabad was a walk over as the ill-disciplined Hyderabad force, the Razakars, scattered before the Indian army.  There was no match between the units of the India Army, fresh from winning laurels in the Second World War, and Hyderabad troops who had not fought a serious war in centuries. 

After the success of what is officially called the Police Action of 1948 Hyderabad became part of the Indian Republic.  That time Hyderabad, Muslim society was divided into three categories: a small, aristocratic elite, mostly relatives of the Nizam and jagirdars, a growing middle class of doctors, academics and service people, and the majority who were generally poor-domestic servants, labors on the land, shop assistants.  While the upper and lower classes remained behind in India, dazed baffled and doubtful, many of the middle class migrated to Pakistan. The abrupt removal of the middle class, the most dynamic component of society, ensured its collapse in Hyderabad.  It is a collapse which is evident today.

The remnant of the middle class who did not migrate to Pakistan camouflaged themselves.  Religious custom were altered-Hello was substituted for salaam, goodbye for hafiz-and symbols-beards for men, burkha for women-were dropped Hindu symbolism was adopted, for instance the bindi, the circle on the forehead, by women.  In some cases names, the final tell tale were changed altogether or disguised.  Becoming invisible, many Muslims did well.  They became business executive and civil servants.  Their invisibility was a cause and consequence of their success.

Overnight, therefore, Hyderabad civilization-dress, food language-became obsolete, redundant, a thing of the past. In 1948 Urdu ceased to be the medium of instruction at the Osmania University and the jagirdari system was abolished; In 1965 the name of the state, Hyderabad, disappeared from the map and its territories were merged with three neighboring states.  The state, from over 80,000 square miles, was literally cut down to size and reduced to the district of Hyderabad, just over 5,000 square miles.  Its name and its identity were gone; the story of the state of Hyderabad was over. 

For Muslims there was now the price to pay for the years of domination and rule. Professor Ratna Naidu of Hyderabad University, studying communal violence, has concluded: “The Hindu has for decades stores within his unconscious rages against the Muslims for humiliating memories they evoke for their conquering role in Indian history, for their role in dividing the subcontinent, for their special status today as a political pawn during elections, and the pseudo-privileges which these generate, such as the retention of their personal laws”.

Although forming 8 percent of Andhra Pradesh 45 million population, they are generally under-represented.  1 Muslim out of a total of 77 is registered as an owner of a major or medium industry in the state; 11 Muslim and Christian candidates out of 300 in 1957 and 11 out of 294 in 1983 were members of parliament; about 7 per cent Muslims in 1956 and the same percentage in 1983were in the Andhra Pradesh cabinet.  3 Muslims and Christian out of 43 in 1951-2 and 1 out of 42 in 1980, 2 0ut 0f 42 in 1990 and 1 in 2004 are Lok Sabha members from Andhra Pradesh.  Their general poverty-Muslims are rickshaw pullers and servant- and low literacy rate –about 25 percent also the only a backward but an invisible minority.

Today, perhaps the best known Muslim from Hydrabad is Azharuddin, the star batsman of the yesteryears Indian cricket team (for scoring centuries in each of his first three tests against England he is in the Guinness Book of Records, in 1986)..  There are only 3 Muslims in the 83 entries in the Who’s Who section of the Andhra Pradesh year Book (2010). Muslims cling to their language, Urdu and customs tenaciously: Urdu signs on Muslim shops spirited, though small Urdu dailies; woman in burkhas; men in achkan sherwani and Muslim beards are the evidence. 

The Majlis –i-Ittehad-i-Musleem capitalized on such sentiments and has establish a strong following in it, cannot, therefore provide universal answer or appeal.  Its politics are strident, its policies sterile.  It therefore perpetuates the very condition it wishes to abolish. The Majlis in a sense symbolize the Muslim community.  It has been out of step with larger developments from the start. Earlier , when congress represented the freedom movement, it opposed the party and as a result suffered.  Its present support of the congress has isolated it from the emergent and triumphant local parties, in particular the Telgu desam. The Masjid kind of politics reinforces the isolation of the Muslims in the south.  In contrast, since independence Muslims in the north remained in the main stream of life, many raising to high positions, including that of the President of India.  They played an active part in the struggle of independence, many contributing to the politics of Congress. 

In Andhra Pradesh there are only 7 per cent who speak Urdu compared to 86 per cent who claim Telgu as their mother tongue.  Another recent cultural development which further reinforcement the sense of Muslim isolated is wide spread and energetic Hindu revivalism.  Hindu revivalism is not directly related to Muslim; nevertheless, it makes life uncomfortable for them.  In Andhra Pradesh the revival is a combination of various factors.  In part it is a reassertion of Telgu language and culture in part a political statement against the domination of Delhi represented by the Congress- the historical revolt of the South against the North.  The man who symbolized the revival was, T Rama Rao, the former Chief Minister of Andhra Pradesh.

Muslim finds Hindus “cowardly and mean”.  Hindus complains: “The Muslims are good in only two things- they eat and copulate like beats”. “Muslim claims to social superiority were dismissed: A Hindu untouchable of yesterday becomes a Muslim today; and tomorrow he will start proclaiming that his forefathers lived in Arabia”. Muslims in Andhra Pradesh are crowded in Hyderabad city, where they form a large percentage of its population.  Professor Ratna Naidu described what she called their “ghetto mentality”.  Poverty, overcrowding, lack of facilities such as water, and the constant communal pressure make life difficult for them. Their history only appears to worsen matters for Muslims.  The past grandeur, the splendid buildings, appear to mock their contemporary situation.

An avenue of escape was provided for Muslims by employment opportunities in Arab countries.  The visible signs of affluence-a television, perhaps an AC, among Muslims arose jealously in neighbors.  The underlying anger expresses itself in open resentment when the migrant workers return to Hyderabad.  A moral argument is also employed. Rumors circulate of unscrupulous Muslims who employ or marry –women from Hyderabad but abuse them sexually by loaning their favors to rich client in the Arab state.  The theme of poor Hyderabad girls being married off to outsiders who make their fortunes in Arab lands was explored with melancholy brilliant in the Indian film Bazaar.

The importance of Allah on a necklace or rosary is exaggerated. There is also the Pakistan factor. Pakistan remains a symbol of fear and hate, a menace, for non Muslim Indian it is a convenient lightening rod.  If it did not exist it would have had to be invented it is also perhaps indirectly unconsciously, employed to apply pressure on Muslims.   You are pro Pakistan the charge can be carried to absurd limits. The increasing incident of communal violence, therefore has many explanation; a minor revivalism dramatized by Arab money and coinciding with a major Hindu revival, Pakistan, the politics of India the ghetto mentality poverty, illiteracy. And shot though all these is the sense of loss he yearning for past. For those of the old Muslim elite who are still alive affectionate memories of the past mingle with the realities of today.  It was not so much the loss of wealth that mattered to him as the loss of faith in the life in which he had been brought up.

The emerging realities the emerging relationship between Hindu and Muslim, are symbolized by the Lord Venkateshwara temple. Popularity called the Birla temple, after its buildings and situated on a hillock, it dominoes Hyderabad. It is made of a thousand tons of marble brought from Rajasthan by artisans who it believed are descendants of the makers of the Taj Mahal. Bright lights shine on it at night making it visible for miles.  Like the Sacre Coeur in Paris, which it resemble in the night from a distance, the temple commands the city.  In contrast the Char minor tower once the heart of the city survive amidst the noise, bustle and traffic more as an archaeological wonder, a tourist attraction than a live monument.   The only signs of recent investment are in the Hindu temple attached to its base and providing another source of communal friction.  The contrast is symbolic of dominant Hindu and decaying Muslim society.




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